Monday, April 26, 2010

Why Chiang mai

2010-04-16 - Eileen Edwards

Why Chiang Mai – and what can I do when I get here?

So you’ve had enough for now of Western living expenses, Western politicians, Western crime waves, Western wars, and Western weather -- unless you’re fortunate enough to live in California, in which case, please disregard the weather! Maybe you’re a graduate student at a Western university and need to go somewhere different and do something useful during your break. Or there’s always been a gypsy in your soul and you’ve a compulsion to move on every few years.

But, why Chiang Mai? Maybe you’ve visited previously and want to see more of the fascinating Lanna North of Thailand, or you’ve arrived almost by accident and want to stay. Whatever the reason, living here is what you feel you should do, for a while or even for ever! You may even realise that a break here, however long, won’t prepare you for the major adjustments that come with residence --- or at least as permanent a residence as current and ever-changing visa rules will allow.

So you surf the internet at all hours of the day and night and scan numerous websites for information about visas, housing, weather, lifestyle, shipping, shopping, living expenses, hobbies, sports, clubs, and the language - plus TEFL courses if you feel a compulsion to teach English - and the important stuff like bars, restaurants and nightlife.

Once you’ve discarded the out –of-date and the obvious overkill and spin,
your next step may have been a “ research trip”, during which, having explored the joys of the Night Market, several Wats, the Elephant Camp, several Thai restaurants, rather more farang restaurants, and three pubs, you met Westerners who actually live here! First-hand information is useful, but one subject may not have been up for discussion - ‘how can I go about being of use while I’m here?’

Even the most casual visitors to Chiang Mai and the north of Thailand usually become aware of the ‘in your face’ needs of many here, particularly in the rural and mountainous areas. Orphanages, ethnic minority schools, infrastructure for micro-enterprise and sustainable development, micro-finance development, care for animals, etc, - all the skills incomers have learned during their lives can make a real difference here, and if you love to teach, you’ll be more than welcome.

Chiang Mai University (CMU), located here in the city, is one of the most highly regarded universities in Thailand, with its Language Institute geared up to provide not just tuition in many languages, including Thai, to students of all ages and nationalities, but also several answers to the ‘how can I help?’ question. The CMU Language Institute’s TEFL (Teaching English as a Foreign Language) course is quite simply the best in town, (no matter what you may read online in competing organisations’ web pages! ), and their Cultural Exchange Programme provides an opportunity to give and receive where it’s most needed.

Many government schools in the city and region cannot provide good native English teachers as government grants are too small. As the international language, English is essential for the development of an international perspective in today’s young people, which, in turn, will aid the country’s development. At present this is only successfully provided at the high-cost International Schools in the city, with rural children and those from poor families totally excluded.

The Chiang Mai University Language Institute’s new Cultural Exchange Programme is a great follow-on after a successful TEFL course, providing opportunities not only in teaching but in sharing your abilities in many diverse fields with those who need them most. However obscure your speciality, and however long it takes, their development team will find a suitable placement and support you with a one-year renewable Education Visa and practical assistance for as long as you are in the programme.

If you decide to stay for a while, your next challenge may well be learning the Thai language, considered to be the third most difficult language in the world after Chinese and Japanese. Again, the CMU Language Institute’s Thai courses, ranging from a one month ‘essentials’ course to a full year of study including reading and writing, are the answer, and also include the all-important Education Visa. The teachers make sure the process is fun, and the classrooms are filled with laughter, learning games and the practical information necessary to make sense of the language.

For more information on the options offered by Chiang Mai University Language Institute, please contact the relevant department through this website, either by email or by phone.

Teaching in Thailand

2010-04-28 - Eileen Edwards

We’re here --We’re settled--What now?--Teaching in Thailand?

The culture shock’s fading, you know your way around town, you’ve set everything up according to your dreams, you’ve made new friends and discovered new activities –what now? Maybe you’re getting just slightly bored, if you’re a retiree the high baht may be affecting your monthly pension, maybe you just want a challenge, or maybe you’d decided in the planning stages of your move to find some work once you were settled. Or maybe, you’ve arrived by chance, and decided to stay!

Many expats who fit into the above categories will decide that they might try teaching English, either in a local school, at a commercial language establishment, or privately. After all, didn’t you read all about teaching in Thailand on the internet, and didn’t it sound easy, fun, and remunerative! That’s if you consider that an average of 20,000 baht per month is remunerative enough – even now, it should be!

Unfortunately, as with everything you read on the internet, it’s difficult to determine information from disinformation, and even more difficult to connect with both sides of the story. Yes, there are teaching jobs for native English speakers here in Chiang Mai-- although not nearly as many as there used to be--and yes, the experience is nothing like the experience of teaching in the West! So, the rest of this article will concern the realities. Whilst reading, please remember that 'This is Thailand!'

Up to two or three years ago it seemed comparatively easy to walk into a teaching job with just a basic Teaching English as a Foreign Language, (TEFL), certificate, obtained by taking a Thai Ministry of Education - approved four-week TEFL course at an approved language school with approved instructors. But –which TEFL course at which school? And, importantly, what’s an ‘approved TEFL course’?

Now back to basics! There are many TEFL course available in Chiang Mai, mostly from small institutions owned and run by expats. Some are franchises, some are independent, and charges for the course are similar across the board. So, what’s the best bang for your bucks? And, as a new arrival, how do you tell the spin from the reality?

A Google search reveals websites with headings such as ‘ Welcome to Paradise’, ‘Guaranteed Job Placement’, ‘Exciting Excursions’, ‘Internationally Recognised’, etc, etc. What is rarely mentioned is the requirement by the majority of Thai schools for a basic degree as well as a TEFL qualification, the thorny problem of visa compliance, and the realities of actually finding and keeping a worthwhile job which actually pays! The essential teaching practice, and the teaching of the course itself, can also be of variable quality. Advisory websites for foreign teachers in Thailand tell tales of woe based on hands-on experience.

So, what’s a guy to do? This is where common sense kicks in, as there is one famous institution in Chiang Mai which covers all needs, from its own accreditation with the Thai Ministry of Education through the high quality of its teaching, to job placement, to essential visa advice and assistance and, most importantly, to telling it like it is! If you haven’t guessed already, the way to go is to Chiang Mai University’s Language Institute.

The Chiang Mai University (CMU) Language Institute’s TEFL course comprises all the practical skills needed, plus hands-on teaching practice in Thai schools from the very first week of the four week course, so that everything learned can be immediately put into practice. Assistance with finding a suitable placement is backed by the respect the city’s educational institutions have for the University and its graduates in all fields.

Most importantly, a three-month Education Visa is provided as part of the CMU Language Institute’s TEFL package, and if their challenging and enjoyable one-year Thai Language course is taken at the same time, the visa (obviously) will be for a full year. Chiang Mai University is highly regarded in Thailand, thus negating any problems which might occur in this, at present, somewhat sensitive area, giving participants a sense of security they might not feel elsewhere.

An interesting add-on for those who, once they have their TEFL qualification from the CMU Language Institute, feel that they would like to teach where it’s truly needed is the Institute’s Cultural Exchange Programme. This new and popular service can arrange placements in orphanages, ethnic minority schools and suchlike, in and around Chiang Mai city and province. Many children in rural districts don’t get the chance to learn English, or even to receive a secondary education, as government grants are too low for the schools to employ specialist teachers.

Although ‘volunteering’ legally requires a difficult-to-obtain work permit, participants in the CMU Language Institute’s Cultural Exchange Programme are also covered by a one-year Education Visa. For further information on any of the Chiang Mai University Language Institute’s programmes, please visit their website at www.teflcmu.com. You’ll be glad you did!

The Land of Smiles

2010-04-22 - Eileen Edwards

Smile, Please!

Idly watching TV a while ago, I noticed an advertisement intended to encourage tourists to visit Malaysia. Splashed across the screen in bold type were the words, “Where the smiles are still genuine”. Ouch.

That less than subtly negative reference to Thailand’s long held nickname, “The Land of Smiles”, set me thinking. I’d already began to wonder if foreigners really understood the “Thai Smile” as, several weeks earlier, a friend had told me that her housekeeper had announced the death of her much loved mother with a grin on her face which would have done justice to a beauty pageant winner!

The same topic was brought to mind again recently, when a UK friend forwarded me, amazingly, an actual analysis of the famous Thai smile, (or, in this case, smiles plural), which explained everything, although unfortunately it did not include photos of the various types of smiles!

It would seem that, whatever situation occurs in a Thai person’s life, to smile is the only appropriate reaction. As a result, it’s easy to understand why a smile when announcing bad news would need to appear different than, say, a smile when announcing a lottery win. Smiles can be used to show or hide almost any emotion, be it joy, misery, embarrassment, anger, sorrow, confusion, disagreement or even fear.

I remember a supreme example of this, witnessed during a hospital visit to a good friend who had just undergone a spinal operation and was in a great deal of pain. Her teenaged Thai “granddaughter”, a very talented and very tiny girl, had realised that my friend required stronger painkillers and had asked to see a doctor who, when he arrived, refused her request.

Astonished, I watched the tiny girl stand up, face right on to the doctor, raise her arms high in the air and tell him, in a stream of obviously very emphatic and sharp-voiced Thai, exactly what he had to do! All with a huge smile on her lovely little face. I was even more astonished to see the doctor scuttle out and return in double quick time with the necessary medicaments. Unbelievable.

The “smileometer” tells that there are 13 different types of smile (yim, in Thai). The first, and most familiar is the “yim tak tai” – the polite smile used to greet a stranger or distant acquaintance. No problem there, then. Also recognisable is the second type, the “feun yim”, the “I don’t want to smile but I’m being forced to” version. A quick look at the roadside during the monthly check on non- helmet-wearing motorcyclists by local traffic police should provide plenty of examples!

The third smile, the “yim cheuat chauan”, could probably be referred to in the West as a smug grin, as it’s used by a winner to a losing rival. Suitable, therefore, for politicians the world over. The fourth example, the “yim tang nam dtah” is the real thing, the “I’ve just won the lottery” smile. It might be useful to be able to identify the fifth, the “yim tak tan”, as it’s the “Sorry, but you’re wrong and I’m right” version – do any particular occasions spring to mind? Think about it…

The next few smiles are the difficult ones—for various reasons. Firstly, the
“yim sao”, used, as my friend found out with her housekeeper, to mask feelings of unhappiness, grief or sadness. Western women have a similar concept--the sad little smile accompanied by the words, “nothing, really”, when we’re asked “What’s the matter?” by a person who hasn’t yet realised that we’ve spent the previous hour howling our eyes out.

This next is the one we expats really do need to be able to recognise—the
“yim mee lay-nai” --, the worst of the lot! It’s used to conceal evil intention, particularly in the sense of “I’m about to rip you off, and you don’t know it because I’m smiling”. Live and learn, guys! The next example isn’t good news either, as the “yim yor” is used to mock, taunt or laugh in an unpleasant manner at another person.

Having got the bad news over with, the last five are at least not threatening! The “yim cheun chom” is used when a person is really impressed with or admires another person; the “yim mai ork”, literally translated as “smile not go out”, means just that--I really want to smile, but I just can’t.; the “yim yair-yair” is the apologising smile, used to defuse potentially upsetting or embarrassing situations, and the “yim hairng”, the dry smile, is the really nervous apologetic smile used with words such as “I’m sorry, I know that’s one of your favourite vases I’ve just broken, but please don’t get angry with me…”

However, the smile that we foreign residents should take lessons in how to use is the
“yim soo”- “ everything’s hopeless, so I might as well smile” – very useful at immigration, the auto shop, or in any situation where one’s rudimentary Thai simply can’t cope!

The above should give us at least some idea how to evaluate the famous ‘Thai Smile’, and realise that not everyone who is smiling at us is either happy or friendly, and that, on rare occasions, there may be a number of other less pleasant motivations. As a result it’s often a good idea to keep one’s guard up in unfamiliar situations.

I recently read that nowadays in Bangkok and Pattaya, the beautiful, genuinely welcoming smiles are seen far less often; here in Chiang Mai, most of us would, I suspect, agree that there are still plenty enough of the right kind of “Thai smiles” to go around!

Thai class excursions

2010-04-26 - Eileen Edwards

The explorer Stanley would have been proud to see his fellow Americans crossing the Ping River with only the slightest quiver of determined lips. The Brits in our party had, by then, descended into that stoical silence usually adopted by those unfortunate enough to be forced to travel on London’s notoriously crowded Northern subway line. Fortunately, Kruu Gaye’s typical Thai optimism kept our spirits afloat.

On our arrival, we were greeted by a colourful, typically traditional Thai festival, with dance, music, local foods and stalls selling local artefacts. A delightful morning full of intriguing experiences and friendly people was enjoyed by all, and had the effect of increasing our determination to learn this tricky language in order to understand and communicate. We’ve been promised other such excursions during the rest of the year’s course, including one to a genuine Muay Thai event –can’t wait! Another of Kruu Gaye’s suggestions was a Thai cooking class, however, this may be dead in the water as, out of 12 students at present, only one is female!

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Volunteer Travel

2010-03-26 - Jon Ford

Volunteer travel involves taking a trip abroad to do unpaid work for a charitable cause. The volunteering work can be the main focus and purpose of the trip, or it can be a component of a longer period of travel or ‘gap year’. Volunteer travel participants are from a diverse range of backgrounds and experiences, but are generally united by the desire to give up their time and energy in pursuit of a worthwhile cause abroad. In return, volunteer travellers can expect to learn new skills and meet new challenges in places that they might not normally consider visiting.

Participants can volunteer on a wide range of projects and activities. One of the most popular schemes is teaching English to schoolchildren in developing countries. This gives the volunteer an opportunity to become a part of the local community and absorb the local culture while at the same time making a positive contribution towards the development of the children’s education. Another popular volunteering activity is wildlife conservation work. This can range from clearing and maintaining nature reserves to feeding and caring for animals in a wildlife sanctuary. Building and construction projects are another common form of volunteering work and often involve contributing to the creation of vital community projects such as building homes for underprivileged families in developing countries.

Volunteer travel has traditionally been undertaken by people with a specific connection to a particular cause, and was seen as a short-term intense project rather than a component of a longer vacation. This kind of volunteer travel still takes place, usually by volunteers with very specific skills and training. An example of this kind of volunteer project would be medical professionals volunteering their skills in the hospital of a developing country on a short-term basis.

In more recent times however, the emphasis of volunteer travel has shifted away from short, intense and professional projects towards more long-term and unskilled activities. It is often the case that the only requirements needed from the volunteer are enthusiasm and a willingness to ‘get stuck in’. This shift in emphasis means that there are now more opportunities than ever before for people to participate in volunteer travel, which in turn means that more resources can be poured into a wide variety of projects. Wherever volunteer projects take place they are intended to benefit the local environment and community. Volunteers themselves nearly always report that their experience of giving up their time in support of such projects is intensely rewarding.

Problems for teachers in foreign countries

2010-03-26 - Jon Ford

Educators choosing to further their career by taking up jobs in a foreign country are subjected to a form of culture shock. If they have worked in the teaching profession in their home country, they will have become accustomed to particular sets of values, approaches and methodologies for teaching. Upon starting work in a foreign country, they will be educating students used to somewhat different methods of study, and may therefore have to adapt their approach to the classroom. Anyone considering working in education abroad without previous experience should ensure they gain the necessary qualifications, for example a TEFL certificate, before applying for jobs in this sector.

The first and most obvious difficulty facing educators in a foreign country is the language barrier. While teachers from an English-speaking country might expect their students to have a reasonable knowledge of English, they must learn the language of their new students if they are to function effectively as educators. With this in mind, those going to work as teachers abroad are well-advised to acquire some basic knowledge of the local language before they begin their new role.

In addition to the language difficulty, educators in a foreign country may well find that the syllabus of their particular subject differs considerably from that which they were familiar with in their home country. Although they may have made every effort to prepare in advance for such differences, it is only upon arrival that teachers will learn exactly what is required of them. It may be the case that they have to teach different classes to what they were expecting, in which case a flexible approach and a willingness to acquire new knowledge rapidly becomes a necessity. It is essential that educators in a foreign country equate their instruction with the expectations of their institution and the needs of their students. This includes preparing students for required exams and adapting their assessment methods to the local system.

Such flexibility may also be required with regard to teaching methods. Teachers arriving in a foreign country may have firm ideas about successful teaching strategies based on their experiences in their own country, but find that these strategies are not as effective in their new environment. It may then be the case that teachers will have to modify their classroom methods to cater for the needs of their new students who are accustomed to different methods of study.

Finally, it is significant that anyone going to teach in a foreign country will themselves have a significant amount of learning to undertake. They will be operating within a new and unknown culture and will likely feel a certain amount of anxiety, disorientation and confusion as they begin to assimilate their new environment. The process of overcoming such problems and learning to operate effectively within the new culture will, however, be one of the most rewarding experiences for the educator working in a foreign country.

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

What is volunteer travel?

2010-03-22 - Steve Brooks

Are you one of those people who get bored lying on a beach, and who want more of a challenge? Would you prefer to get involved in a collective endeavour with like-minded people, one with a strong social ethos? Then volunteer travel may be an attractive alternative.

Volunteering can take a variety of forms, with differing aims and differing levels of intensity and commitment. It can range from reclaiming old canals in the English Midlands to building new schools in the hills of Lesotho. In terms of time commitment it can range from a few hours at the weekend near your home, to a whole ‘gap year’ in some exotic and hard-to-reach location abroad.

The focus of volunteering holidays can be industrial archaeology, conservation and ecology, education, economic and social development, and dealing with social and political problems. As far as the first two options are concerned the volunteer in Europe and the USA does not need to travel very far from home. In England, the restoration of many previously derelict railways and canals have been completed mainly as the result of volunteer programs made up of enthusiasts prepared to give their time freely to these projects. Similarly, the reclamation of wetlands and other habitats of endangered species have been done largely by volunteers.

For those wishing to travel further afield however, there are other areas to explore. Education is one field of opportunity for those with the appropriate skills and experience. For example, many government schools in Thailand are anxious to expand the teaching of English, but do not have the financial resources to hire native-speaker English teachers. This gap can be filled by volunteer teachers, be they expat retirees giving their time on a pro bono basis, younger people as part of their ‘gap year’ programme, or (especially prevalent in Chiang Mai) young Christian missionaries on church-sponsored outreach programmes. Volunteer English teachers in Chiang Mai are also much appreciated at some temple schools, and at the various orphanages and refuges around the town.


Another challenge is to get involved in trying to alleviate social problems. Of course, this can be done in the volunteer’s own town – churches, charities and voluntary groups are always short of willing helpers. However, some kinds of social work can also be done abroad. In Northern Thailand, for example, there are many low-status groups that do not enjoy the same government support they might in other countries. Examples include AIDS victims and AIDS orphans, the disabled, undocumented refugees and migrant workers, and indigenous ‘hill tribe’ people. Of course, some of this work involves delicate cross-cultural skills, and can also be politically sensitive, but nonetheless there are opportunities here too.

So, if you are bored with holiday hedonism, and wish to make a contribution to the well-being of our planet, there are plenty of opportunities out there.